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"You have people who have been told to eat fish because it's
healthful, but they have not been told it contains contaminants,"
says physician Jane Hightower, whose yearlong study of patients
in her Bay Area practice was published Friday in Environmental Health
Perspectives, an online journal of the National Institute of Environmental
Health Services, part of the National Institutes of Health.
Concern is widespread:
A Food and Drug Administration advisory
committee recommended in July that the agency do research to assess
the risks to women and young children who eat canned tuna. The amount
of methylmercury per can is generally low, about 0.17 parts per
million, but it can vary widely, says Michael Bender of the Mercury
Policy Project, an advocacy group.
"Tuna is the most consumed fish in the country," Bender
says. "If you're a pregnant woman and you eat over two cans
of tuna per week, you can go over" safe levels of mercury.
The FDA currently recommends that women who are or could become
pregnant limit all fish to 12 ounces a week.
A survey of Hong Kong high school
students found that as many as 10% eat enough fish to exceed safety
limits for mercury exposure. The report, which prompted a Chinese
government warning about consumption of shark and other large fish,
found that the students' diets gave them a mercury exposure of 6.41
micrograms per kilogram (2.2 pounds) of body weight a week. The
World Health Organization recommends a 5-microgram limit.
In September,
the United Nations Environment Programme hosted a meeting in Geneva
about ways to reduce mercury emissions around the world. A report
from that meeting will be considered by environment ministers at
a meeting of UNEP's governing council in February and could lead
to consideration of an international treaty on mercury emissions.
Hightower's study and similar reports from other researchers who
attended a recent meeting in Vermont, sponsored by the EPA, suggest
that consumers who eat expensive fish are increasingly putting themselves
at risk for mercury poisoning.
"They are switching to fish to improve their health,"
says Caroline Smith DeWaal of the Center for Science in the Public
Interest, but "they're being exposed to dangerously high levels
of methylmercury." That's especially troubling if the consumers
are women who plan to have children, says DeWaal, author of the
recently published Is Our Food Safe? "It is critical that women
of childbearing age stop eating this fish from six months to a year
before becoming pregnant."
The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention estimates about
8% of women in this age group have enough mercury in their bodies
to pose a risk of having babies with mild learning problems.
No set standards
Mercury released from power plants, municipal waste facilities
and medical incinerators is the primary source of methylmercury
in fish. Methylmercury is an organic form of mercury that is different
from what is in mercury thermometers or what goes up smokestacks
when coal is burned.
Mercury is converted to methylmercury by bacteria in water. So
when people are talking about mercury in fish, they are really talking
about the toxic methylmercury. What makes it dangerous to health
is that it is hard for the body to eliminate, so it can build up
and may affect the nervous system. Most human exposure to methylmercury
is through fish consumption.
The FDA ceased its large methylmercury sampling program in 1998,
and today federal agencies conduct only limited testing of fish
for methylmercury. The industry does, too, on a voluntary basis,
says Rhona Applebaum, a scientist with the National Food Processors
Association. "Whether it's mercury or any other defect, chemical
or microbial, the industry does regular testing" to assure
that the product meets FDA standards.
"We do know tuna contains methylmercury," she says, but
mercury is "naturally occurring, so on a daily basis people
are exposed. It's not at levels that will result in acute toxicity
unless people are not practicing basic tenets of nutrition: balance,
variety and moderation."
Studies show women ages 15-44 eat canned tuna 1.5 times a month,
well within the range of safety, but too much of anything can be
harmful, she says. "If people are going to consume one type
of food literally ad nauseam, there's going to be an impact."
The FDA and Environmental Protection Agency differ on what they
consider acceptable levels and measure it differently. The FDA,
which regulates commercially caught fish, sets an "action level"
of 1 part per million. If higher levels are reported, the FDA can
remove the fish from the market, though critics say that rarely
occurs. The EPA has a "reference dose" that says people
can be exposed to .1 microgram per kilogram of body weight per day,
which is roughly 5 to 7 micrograms per day for someone who weighs
100 to 154 pounds, says Kate Mahaffey of the EPA. That's about a
fifth of the amount the FDA considers safe.
The FDA's standard permits about 480 micrograms of methylmercury
in one pound of fish, she says. "If fish is that contaminated,
and you're trying to keep in the 5 to 7 micrograms per day range,
you can't eat much of that fish."
But the EPA does not regulate commercial fish. It works with state
environmental and health departments to test local rivers and other
bodies of water where recreational fishing is done and where mercury
levels may be high because of local pollution. When high levels
of mercury are detected in the water, the states post fish advisories
to warn consumers.
"There are fish advisories in most states for mercury,"
says Michael Gochfeld, professor of environmental medicine at the
Robert Wood Johnson Medical School in Piscataway, N.J.
Even in areas where industrial pollution has been reduced, the
problem persists because of atmospheric pollution drifting from
other areas, he says. "Virtually all our mercury-polluting
industry in New Jersey is closed," he says, but state health
officials regularly warn residents not to eat fish from specific
lakes and rivers where mercury levels are high. Ten states also
warn pregnant women to limit consumption of canned tuna and other
commercial seafood.
Yet health experts point out that fish is an important part of
a balanced diet. It's full of vitamins and other nutrients, including
omega-3 fatty acids, which help lower cholesterol and blood pressure
and reduce the risk of cardiac arrest. And it's low in calories.
How that squares with mercury poisoning is "a very difficult
message to convey," says epidemiologist Tom Sinks of the National
Center for Environmental Health, part of the CDC. "Fish is
a vehicle by which people are exposed to mercury. But at the same
time, fish is a good source of protein and nutrients, an important
part of the diet, and one we want people to eat in a healthy way."
He says the fish that are high in omega-3, such as salmon and sardines,
are low on the mercury scale. "We want to encourage people
not to avoid fish, but to advise them that some fish have higher
levels of mercury, and if they're concerned, they should avoid those
fish," he says.
The trouble, Hightower says, is that some people appear to be more
sensitive to methylmercury than others. The EPA and the National
Academy of Sciences recommend keeping mercury levels in blood at
5 micrograms per liter or less. In Hightower's study, patients'
blood levels ranged from 2 to nearly 90 micrograms per liter. Symptoms
varied widely and did not always correlate with the burden of methylmercury.
"There were some with elevated levels who had no symptoms.
There are some with low levels with symptoms," she says. "It
is unclear whether these patients are having symptoms due to direct
effects of mercury or a reaction to it," she says. But, she
adds, most people can withstand a bee sting, while others go into
shock. "We recognize there are severe reactions to very minuscule
quantities of certain agents."
Hightower says it's not known how many people might be affected
by methylmercury, and she can't prove that the symptoms her patients
suffered were caused by overconsumption of fish, but "the funny
thing is, people got better when they stopped eating it."
Not eating fish helped
That's what happened to Wendy Moro, 40, a marketing consultant
who lives with her husband and son in a suburb of San Francisco.
Until April 2001, she says, she was the picture of health. A 110-
pound bundle of energy, she ran several miles a day, danced ballet,
lifted weights. She also ate fish two to five times a week, at home
and at the Bay Area's better restaurants.
"On the West Coast, we eat a lot of fish," she says.
"It's an affluent community, and fish is accessible and popular.
You go out for dinner. People don't go out for T-bone steaks anymore.
It's all fish."
She ate tuna for lunch a couple of times a week, and the family
would have seafood for dinner regularly, often choosing steak fish
such as ahi tuna or halibut. "We just looked for what was fresh,"
she says. "I thought I was being really healthy, not eating
meat, eating lots of fish."
The first sign of trouble was severe fatigue -- "the kind
where it is impossible to stay awake for more than a few hours at
a time," she says. Then pain and weakness in her limbs worsened
to the point where she could barely stand. A series of doctors diagnosed
or tested her for multiple sclerosis, muscular dystrophy, chronic
fatigue syndrome, mononucleosis, diabetes insipidus. One suggested
she be evaluated for mental illness.
Finally, she was referred to Hightower, who tested her for mercury
poisoning. Moro's blood level was 17, more than three times the
recommended level, though still below what some doctors think is
enough to cause such severe symptoms.
When Moro stopped eating fish, her symptoms began to disappear.
Now, she says, she's "about 85%" back to normal. She keeps
a file on mercury that she gives to friends who are thinking about
having a baby.
If it could happen to her, it could happen to anyone, she says.
"I'm such an average Jane. I live in a suburb; I have 1.5 kids,
if you count my dog. I'm not a super-fanatic, not a triathlete.
I'm not super-rich or poor. I'm just an average Joe-USA TODAY. That's
what's scary."
Alan Stern, chief of the New Jersey Department of Environmental
Protection who served on a National Academy of Sciences committee
on methylmercury two years ago, says it's too soon to draw firm
conclusions from Hightower's study. "I would consider it to
be the very early stages of a clinical case description, and it's
not at a point yet where it can be translated into a public health
message," he says.
Such reports, he says, "call our attention to the potential
of health effects at low levels of exposure (to methylmercury),
but they don't make an open-and-shut case."
Even the relief of symptoms reported by people who stop eating
fish is inconclusive, he says, because it is "hard to distinguish
that from a placebo effect. From an objective standpoint, one cannot
say this association goes to the next step of cause and effect."
But if nothing else, Stern says, consumers and doctors should be
alert to the possibility that small exposures to mercury in fish
might cause symptoms. His cautionary conclusion: "Individuals
should choose their diets wisely."
How mercury contamination spreads
- The most common sources of mercury in air are coal-burning
power plants, municipal waste combustors, medical waste incinerators
and hazardous waste combustors.
- Tiny particles or mercury travel through smokestacks into the
air. They then fall onto soil or water.
- Mercury can accumulate in fish and wildlife. Small fish are
eaten by big fish, so big fish and fish-eating birds generally
have higher levels of contamination.
- Mercury can contaminate water or land through the discharge
of industrial wastewaters.
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